The Return of the Ice Men

To celebrate 50 years since the first complete ascent of Zero Gully on Ben Nevis, the closing night of the 2007 Festival brings together an unforgettable line-up of winter-climbing pioneers for an evening of lively discussion about the evolution of ice-climbing techniques and a rare showing of incredible archive climbing film footage.

Together for one night only - Yvon Chouinard, climber, environmentalist and founder of Patagonia clothing and Jimmy Marshall, Scottish climbing legend, discuss step-cutting and the front-pointing revolution, and their own amazing experiences in winter climbing. Hosted by Dave MacLeod, one of the UK's best climbers, the evening is dedicated to the patron of the Fort William Mountain Festival, Hamish MacInnes. The evening includes a rare showing of archive climbing film and Hamish will join the speakers on stage for a Q&A session with the audience.

The first complete ascent of Zero Gully was completed 50 years ago on 18th February 1957 by Hamish MacInnes, Tom Patey and Graeme Nicol. Zero Gully was described as "one of the hardest ice climbs in the world" and the climbers each had a single ice axe ("The Message" in Hamish's case, the first all-metal ice hammer) and either tricouni nailed boots or twelve-point hinged crampons. Protection came from ice pegs, pitons and steel karabiners using 40m nylon ropes. The belays were poor and running anchors nearly non-existent!

Hamish went on to play a key role in the development of modern ice climbing tools and techniques as well as mountain rescue equipment. Shortly after the first ascent three other climbers were killed in a big fall from Zero Gully when their wooden-shaft ice axes snapped. This accident spurred Hamish on to manufacture the first all-metal ice axe in 1960. With their strong shafts and slightly declined picks, new standards of safety were introduced to mountaineering.

Step-cutting techniques were used throughout the 1960s, arguably most successfully by Jimmy Marshall who achieved ascents of Orion Direct, Smith's Route, Minus Three Gully, Observatory Buttress, Pigott's Route and the first single day and free ascent of Point Five Gully ... all in one week!"

In 1970 Yvon Chouinard visited the area, triggering a change that would revolutionise winter climbing. Using prototype curved ice hammers he made some very fast ascents demonstrating how to climb ice by direct aid, hanging off the pick itself embedded into the ice. Comparing techniques with John Cunningham, Hamish MacInnes and many others in the Clachaig one night modern ice climbing was born!

That year Hamish MacInnes developed "The Terrordactyl", a short, all-metal ice tool with a steeply dropped pick. The "Terror" and Chouinard's ice hammer dominated the forefront of international ice climbing for several years. Eventually these two designs were combined to create the banana pick which is still the basis for modern ice tool design.

Make sure you book early for this inspirational evening with the pioneers of winter climbing.

Saturday 03 March, Nevis Centre Festival Theatre, 7-10pm, £15/£10.